One of the best vacation spots I’ve been to in recent years is most certainly Cape Cod, known as “the Cape” to regional travelers and those who live there all year round.
In case you’ve never been or heard about it, the Cape is a 68-mile stretch of sandy beaches in the shape of a scorpion’s tail that is part of Massachusetts’ mainland. From Plymouth, MA, home of the Mayflower and Plymouth Rock, it’s about an hour and 15 minutes to the Cape’s first of many quaint villages. The Cape can be enjoyed on the Atlantic Ocean and the bay side, Cape Cod Bay.
The last time I was on the Cape was in 1996, so you can imagine returning did not feel like I had returned at all. Back then I had only spent two days somewhere in the middle of the Cape and can’t even remember where. So, curiosity and adventure awaited me and my friend.
Packed with Natural Beauty
This treasure trove of natural beauty and history stretches between Chatham and Provincetown. It offers 40 miles of sandy beaches, peaceful marshes, sparkling ponds, rolling dunes, and lush woodlands. You’ll discover historic landmarks like lighthouses and charming seaside cottages.
Restricted Zone protects the eastern coast of Cape Cod and overlaps with the Cape Cod Sanctuary. Certain activities are off-limits here, including building structures on or beneath the seabed, drilling, and extracting sand, gravel, minerals, gases, or oils. Dunes, marshes, pines, and woodlands make each beach area unique.
Very Different from Our Everyday Landscape
I went with a girlfriend and stayed at an Airbnb in Plymouth. That was a wise decision as it took us a little over an hour to go to Boston, where we spent days one and nine, eating our way through the North End’s Italian restaurants.
That’s because where we are currently based, in Austin, Texas, there are NO good Italian eateries. Another reason is that my travel buddy and I are both from the NY/NJ region, where Italian food is to us what BBQ is to Texans.
Old New England Is Alive in This Part of the Country
With town names such as Sandwich, Yarmouth, Barnstable, Eastham, and Chatham… you get the idea. Furthermore, the ever-present white picket fences adorn lawns surrounded by English styled-gardens. We saw lush greenery from so many trees: pitch pine, black oak, white oak, hemlock, red maple, beech and the famous Cape chestnut tree.
In summer, the two-lane roads and Highway 6A are flanked by trees, and there are no billboards or cheap roadway fast-food restaurants. Thanks to the Kennedys, the entire cape is a protected heritage area.
Seafood Lovers Paradise
As my friend and I traversed the Cape, we discovered three exceptional restaurants highlighted below.
Tugboats at Hyannis Marina
What makes a great restaurant? The saying goes, ‘Location, location, location’. Tugboats definitely has that, right on the Hyannis Marina overlooking a bay, lit at night to create a halo of star-like illuminations for as far as you can see. You can sit inside in one of two areas: a cozy wood-paneled bar with high-top tables or the main dining room.
We chose the third and best area, outside on the deck. Brimming with life, music from a DJ, and buzzing with people of all ages and from all walks of life, we felt as if we were in a seafood nightclub. It was dark by 9:00 pm, and the owner, an extremely amicable and service-oriented fellow (generations have worked in the business) ensured the customers were cared for. The tables were crowded together as this place is super popular, with so many mouths to feed. We found out why there was so much fuss.
I had the freshest steamer clams, pearly white and thick, rich in brine with drawn butter. They were lukewarm, but the owner swept by and assured me he’d deliver a new batch, which he did – and then some. He added more to the order, and it was beyond worth it.
My friend had the lean duck drizzled with a pomegranate sauce and veggie dish. Still, here, you can eat any of your seafood favorites, as everything is caught daily – from lobster to clams, whole belly, colossal shrimp (you cannot get these if you live in the south where Gulf shrimp rule), and stuffed quahog, a big favorite in these parts.
For more information and to make a reservation, visit https://tugboatscapecod.com or call (508) 775-6433. Located at 11 Arlington Street, West Yarmouth, MA 026
Encore Bistro & Bar
Located on the property of the Cape Art Museum and Playhouse, this artsy enclave features one of the best dining establishments on the cape. Granted, we did not eat everywhere, but for nine days, we had ample opportunities to indulge for lunch and dinner.
With a section on the menu called Shares, single portions are also quite generous.
Service is excellent, as in any 1-star Michelin casual dining establishment. Although they do not have a star, I’d give them one for quality, presentation, atmosphere, and service; from the manager to the maitre’ d to the server, we wanted for nothing.
I had the clam chowder, followed by the most original shrimp scampi in a lemony butter sauce with succulent jumbo shrimp, the likes of which I haven’t seen anywhere but on the East Coast. From seared scallops to crab and artichoke dip, lobster cake (dump the crab cake and try this) to a six-ounce fresh lobster roll, you can’t go wrong here.
For more information, visit https://encorediningcapecod.com or call (508) 385-8500. Located at 36 Hope Lane, Dennis, MA 02638
Snug Harbor Fish Company (Fresh Seafood Merchant)
Gourmet-quality seafood is what you can expect at this local fish market. All the fish here is freshly caught to order and made on the spot for your convenience. Cute metal chairs and picnic tables with umbrellas outside the shop provide respite for lunch. If you want to imbibe, buy a bottle of Prosecco next door, as we did, to enjoy with your lunch.
I had the lobster roll served cold. It had chunky bits of the best part of the lobster, a light lemon and mayo blend, and slaw on the side on a roll that wasn’t buttered. In fact, those buttered rolls ruin the taste of the crustacean by a mile. We indulged in fresh oysters and Atlantic salmon and shared a swordfish sandwich the size of a three-story house. It was the perfect blend of casual with excellent quality.
For more information, visit https://snugharborfishcompany.com or call (781) 934-8167. Located at 459 Washington Street at the Sweetser’s Building, Duxbury, MA 02332.
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Have you been to a special travel location? Did you like the food there? Why or why not? What can you suggest to our readers?