The tour bus climbs 400 metres above the Tyrrhenian Sea, to the family-run Agriturismo S. Alfonso in Furore. The name Furore comes from the phrase ‘Terra Furoris’, or ‘land of fury’, referring to the roar of the waves that crash into the Fiordo di Furore (Fjord of Furore) during storms. Roberto Rossellini directed a 1948 Italian drama, ‘L’Amore’ here. Later he fell in love with Ingrid Bergman, who was filming a movie on the Coast.
My tour group of 15 spent 7 heavenly days hiking the nearby Path of the Gods, touring Atrani (Netflix’s Ripley was filmed here), and chatting in the jacuzzi with a glass of locally-made Aglianico. Nearby, Giovanna and Luigi, the children of owners Nicolo and Mikela Cuomo, played ping pong. But it’s the homemade, farm-to-table fare that makes this resort a real find. For one week in high season, I found solitude in Furore, away from the maddening crowds.
A Perfect Location
The group filled all nine bright rooms of the restored medieval main building. It was like a week-long private party, complete with in-house chefs and stellar wine. From Agriturismo S. Alfonso, we visited bucket-list locations on the Amalfi Coast such as Amalfi, Ravello, Positano, and Sorrento.
The Agriturismo’s terrace offered panoramic views of the sea, the rugged terrain and picturesque villages. Each morning, we started out from the lovingly restored farmhouse after a sumptuous breakfast.
An Updated Farmhouse
The 4-storey medieval farmhouse showcases frescoes and ancient portals, with internal spring water wells, and a wood-burning oven. An ancient grape press, made from a centuries-old oak trunk, sits in the basement. A small chapel dedicated to St. Alphonsus Maria De’ Liguori is still used today for weddings. The owners, Nicola and Mikela Cuomo, were married there in 2007.
Wonderful House Wine
Furore’s microclimate allows for grapes and vegetable crops to be cultivated year-round. Wines produced under the Costa d’Amalfi DOC (denominazione di origine controllata) have a designation of controlled origin. Each of Italy’s 329 DOCs has rules about permitted grape varieties, maximum harvest yields, and aging requirements.
Aglianico is a red wine that is full-bodied and spicy, and tastes of plums, chocolate and dark berries. The Agriturismo’s red wine rivals anything we tasted at fancy restaurants in Amalfi or Positano, and pairs well with the simple yet satisfying cuisine.
Fabulous Food
Nicolo and Mikela made amazingly fresh and delicious meals every night from scratch. The gardens on the property supply most of the ingredients used in the kitchen. The owners work with local farmers, breeders and artisans, and use their high quality products such as wholemeal bread, fior di latte, cured meats, poultry and rabbits.
A typical gourmet, four-course dinner would include a starter such as risotto, a meat dish like braised beef in Aglianico wine, a vegetable ragu and tiramisu for dessert. We also ate fresh seafood such as calamari stuffed with vegetables, and anchovies stuffed with smoked cheese. My favorite pasta was the eggplant parmesan, with a tangy tomato sauce, melt-in-your-mouth pasta and local mozerella. The evening server Antonio was very attentive.
Slow Travel
Staying at the Agriturismo for a week was a form of slow travel. Slow travel is a trend that involves spending more time in a destination to learn how the locals live, make connections, and have experiences that are more authentic. Staying in fewer places for longer allowed me to unpack and unwind. It is also easier on the environment to use more sustainable options, for example, walking instead of taking a cab, using public transport and bike riding. By staying in Furore, I took the path less travelled, and kept crowding to a minimum.
Let’s Have a Conversation:
What was your favourite meal you tasted on a vacation? Did you eat it close to home, or abroad? Have you ever tried making your own pasta? You can have a taste of Italy in your own backyard.
