As a makeup artist doing online Zoom makeup consultations with women over 50 across the globe, I’ve had the privilege of meeting and working with some truly delightful, spirited women. Many of these women needed answers to some really perplexing makeup challenges. So let me share them with you.
Presenting the Women and Their Makeup Challenges
Maggie recently got in touch with me because she was soon going to launch an online interior design business and wanted to look more professional. Kathleen recently joined an Armenian folk dancing group and needed to wear makeup when they performed on stage and Gina simply needed some answers to some frustrating changes she was experiencing – including watering eyes and thinning lips.
Diana had issues with making her makeup stick to her nose area, while Jean needed help choosing a makeup brush.
Challenge #1: Watering Eyes
Gina was the mother of the bride and knew she’d be awash in a flood of tears from the moment her daughter first walked down the aisle. She did have waterproof mascara, but how could she possibly keep her eyeliner in place? Fortunately, there are two makeup products that can come to the rescue.
One is called Duraline from the brand Inglot and the other is Aquaseal from Makeup Forever. These two products can transform any powder eyeshadow into waterproof eyeliner.
How to Apply?
First dip your brush into the eyeshadow you want to use as eyeliner. Then put a drop of this product onto the back of your hand and dip the brush into the gel and apply. It dries quickly and does not smudge. Be sure to clean the brush immediately so the product doesn’t harden the bristles and make the brush unusable. Duraline or Aquaseal can also be added to lipstick to turn it into a blush.
Challenge #2: Keeping Nose Makeup in Place
Diana’s problem is very common due to three factors: oiliness, skin texture and the way skin on the nose interacts with makeup products. Since our nose tends to produce more oil than other areas of the face, it can easily cause makeup to slide off or separate. The nose also has larger pores and can be more textured, so it’s harder for makeup to adhere to the skin.
So, here are three techniques to solve this problem.
Technique #1:
This technique involves these steps:
- Exfoliate your nose to remove the dead skin cells. This creates a smoother surface for makeup to adhere to. Two good products that can be used for exfoliation are Elemis Resurfacing pads and Thayer’s Blemish Clearing Pads. My exfoliator of choice is Tatcha’s The Rice Polish.
- Step two is to use a matte face primer or eye primer on the nose. I’ll use my Makeup by Mario Master Eye Prep and Set Eye primer. Instead of eye primer, you can also use hair spray. Spray it directly onto a dry sponge and pat onto your nose and let it dry.
- Next, stamp a minimal amount of foundation (or concealer) on your nose with a sponge. Finally, apply a second coat of hairspray onto the nose and then pat on powder.
Technique #2:
This technique uses setting spray rather than hairspray and a long wearing foundation like Estee Lauder’s Doublewear or Dermablend.
Here are the steps:
- First, exfoliate.
- Then apply a matte primer on the nose. I’ll use Benefit’s Porefessional Face primer.
- Next comes a light dusting of translucent matte powder. I’m using Maybelline’s Banana powder.
- Next step is spraying a dry sponge with setting spray and tapping it on the nose. It’s important to let it dry before going on to the next step.
- Apply a long wearing foundation such as Dermablend or Estee Lauder’s Double Wear by tapping it on with your finger or sponge.
- Pat a second layer of setting spray onto the nose and then the final step is to apply a light dusting of the Mineral Veil Powder from Hourglass
Technique #3:
The third technique is a little simpler and you might want to try this one first to see if this slightly easier version might work for you.
- Once again begin by exfoliating the nose.
- Next, apply eye primer and then apply a light coat of foundation or concealer.
- Over the foundation or concealer apply a light dusting of translucent powder and then conclude by patting on setting spray.
Challenge #3: Choosing Makeup Brushes
Jean wanted to know which are the best brushes to use. There are some pretty good drugstore brushes out there, but I personally feel it’s a good idea to invest in some better-quality brushes since they’ll last longer and often will perform better.
Here are some of my favorites:
- For eyebrow powder application, I love Doll 10’s Eyebrow/Eyeliner brush since it’s a little denser or thicker which means more product can be applied more quickly and easily.
- I will never be without my Sigma E-35 brush for powder eyeshadow application in the crease. It’s the perfect shape and width to fit into the crease area.
- My go-to brush for blush is the Sephora 56 brush.
- Although I’m not usually a fan of double ended brushes just because they’re more challenging to store, I make an exception with this brush just because of its shape and the quality of the soft bristles. It’s Makeup by Mario’s F4 brush. I use the larger end for foundation and the smaller end for contour or blush.
- If you’re looking for a great brush for nose contouring, be sure to check out Patrick Ta’s Major Sculpt Dual Ended Precision Brush. One end is thinner for applying contour and the other end is the perfect size for blending it in.
Challenge #4: Do You Really Need a Face Primer?
This challenge came to me from Paula. She said that she felt like she was already wearing a lot of makeup and asked if she really needed to use a face primer. My answer is a decisive “it depends.”
Since primer provides a barrier between your skin and makeup, your makeup won’t seep into your skin and end up looking cakey. It also gives makeup richer color and longer wear.
So, if you’re experiencing hot flashes, have oily skin, or live in – or will be traveling to – an area with hot, humid weather where makeup can easily melt, a mattifying face primer can save the day. And if you have very dry skin, a moisturizing primer can add some much-needed hydration.
Some great mattifying primers include:
- Benefit’s Porefessional Matte Primer
- Milani’s Conceal and Perfect Blur Out Smoothing Primer
- Maybelline’s Prime Blur and Pore Minimizing Primer
For moisturizing primers, try:
- No7’s Airbrush Away Primer
- Maybelline’s Face Studio Master Primer Hydrate + Smooth
- Eve Pearl’s Moisturizing Primer (SHOW)
Challenge #5: Achieving Coverage Without Looking Cakey
Joyce asked: “How do I get good coverage for my skin that doesn’t end up looking too heavy or cakey?” and “How can I add some soft glow?”
First, to eliminate a cakey look, tap over your foundation with a very slightly dampened makeup sponge. This helps pick up any excess product – which can cause cakiness – sheers out the foundation slightly and adds moisture.
Another technique involves a three-letter word: MIX. Mix a small amount of moisturizer, facial oil, or highlighter into your foundation. Alternatively, try mixing one of these products with a high-quality concealer, such as Natasha Denona’s Hy Glam Concealer.
If you love a glowy blush look, mix a touch of highlighter into your cream or liquid blush. I’m using Saie Beauty Glowy Gel with Tower 28 Cream Blush in “Party Hour.”
Challenge #6: Making Thinning Lips Appear Fuller
Gina asked if her thinning lips could look fuller without looking outlandish.
Here’s a subtle but effective technique: Use a small brush to apply a tiny amount of contour just under the center of the bottom lip. This creates a shadow that visually plumps the lips. Use lip liner on the outer edge of your lips, not just the lip line itself. This slightly enlarges the appearance of your lips without looking overdone.
Finally, adding a touch of lip gloss to the center of your lips reflects light and helps your lips appear fuller.
Challenge #7: Fixing Downturned Lips
Gina also asked about lips that appear downturned. As we age, lips can begin to turn downward due to loss of collagen, elastin, and changes in bone structure. Here’s a technique to create a more lifted look:
Conceal the upper portion of one side of your lower lip line. Then redraw your lip line slightly higher with lip liner, curving it upward before reaching the concealed area. This technique repositions your lip line for a subtle, lifted effect.
Challenge #8: Creating a Polished, Professional Finish
Marcia wanted to know how to make her makeup look more polished and professional.
Here’s what I recommend: Use a slightly damp makeup sponge to gently tap around your face. This blends everything together and removes excess product. Apply Hourglass Ambient Light Finishing Powder. This luxury product acts like a filter, slightly blurring the skin and adding a soft glow.
For an added glow, spray some Tatcha Luminous Dewy Skin Mist onto a damp sponge and gently tap it onto the tops of your cheekbones.
Let’s Have a Conversation:
What is one makeup challenge that’s been giving you a hard time? Please share in the comments below.
