This article is part two of my Greek Islands visit. The first one covered the island of Rhodes which included Rhodes Old City and Lindos.
Exploring Pigadia, the Capital of Karpathos Island
Returning to Rhodes Old City from Lindos, we took the Sea Star ferry to the island of Karpathos, which took about four hours. This island offered a completely different experience and feel from Rhodes. We got off the ferry in the main town of Pigadia, the capital of Karpathos Island.
As I stepped off the ferry, I was greeted by the site of a lovely little classic Greek town nestled around the striking turquoise harbor. This small town is home to approximately 2,700 people. The entire island’s population is around 7,000 but this number can swell by the thousands during the high season months.
Most people here are year-round residents. Others come specifically to run a tourist-centered business and return to the mainland when the season is over. The island pretty much shuts down to tourists come October.
Great Place to Relax
After the hustle and bustle of Rhodes and Lindos, the fewer number of tourists and laid-back atmosphere on Karpathos was a welcome surprise. There are no cruise ships or day trippers coming into this small harbor. After collecting our bags, it was an easy walk to the boutique hotel we had booked.
The Odyssey Hotel had very nice and very large rooms, a rooftop terrace, and a delicious, free breakfast. We had an excellent view of the harbor, the town, and the surrounding mountains as we sat on the terrace and sipped our morning coffee.
Delicious Food Is Everywhere
One of the first things we did was scout out the restaurants in walking distance to our hotel. We had found some delicious and affordable food on Rhodes and were hoping it would be the same here. If anything, the prices were a little cheaper, and the food was amazing. Don’t get me wrong, there are some high-priced tourist restaurants on Karpathos, but if you look around you can find more affordable options serving authentic and delectable cuisine along with locally made olive oils and wines.
Visiting the Local Chapels
Next, we walked up the hill to visit two chapels.
The first was a beautiful little building that overlooked the harbor and was also home to the cemetery. I was shocked by the stunning interior. Inside, the walls and ceiling were painted with the most beautiful frescos.
The second chapel was just over the next little hill. It, too, was lovely, and we could tell this was where people gathered for weekly service.
Ruins Are Another Part of the Experience
There are a few ancient ruins sites on Karpathos, but not on the level of Rhodes. The few around Pigadia are easy to walk to and free to explore.
Right at the edge of town stand the ruins of an ancient church. The paleo Christian Basilica of Agia Fotini dates back to the year 400. There is not a lot left, but what is here is very interesting. The site includes some marble columns, frame and foundation of the church, plus some Christian symbols. A great place for photos.
Some notable ruins of the ancient city of Potideon can also be seen here. This small ruin is actually quite popular as it is easy to find, sitting behind a fence at the side of the road. There are a few other small sites that sounded interesting but we had done our share of walking on Rhodes and came to this island to relax and enjoy a more laid-back atmosphere and beaches.
Driving Around the Island in Leisure
We rented a car for a few days and drove all around the island. I was not prepared for how stunning our drives would be. The East side of the island has high mountain roads lined with pine trees and dramatic cliffs that overlook the Aegean Sea. The West side of the island is drier with a more arid type landscape, including olive and fruit groves, but I found it equally stunning.
Enjoying the Beaches
There are 19 beaches on the island, most relatively small. We didn’t get to visit them all, but we definitely made the effort. Some are sand and some are pebble beaches. There is a nice little beach right on the edge of Pigadia, within walking distance. But our first stop for a swim was the most popular beach on the island, Apella Beach.
We arrived early, so parking and getting beach chairs and an umbrella was easy. We spent several wonderful hours here, swimming in the beautiful turquoise waters and soaking up the sun. Early birds that we are, it seemed that we were leaving when the majority of people were just arriving. Driving back to Pigadia, we took advantage of all the scenic overlook spots and pulled over to take pictures of the beautiful – and dramatic – scenery.
Exploring Olymbos
The next day was cloudy and windy, with some light rain. Not ideal for our next destination, but we forged on, and it was a great day. We headed up into the mountains to the village of Olymbos. Not to be confused with Mt. Olympos, where the Greek gods of lore ruled, the tiny village of Olymbos, with a “b”, is one of the most famous villages in not only Karpathos, but in all of Greece.
Delving in some History
Described as a living folklore museum, this picturesque village offers interesting history, ancient traditions, and panoramic views to its visitors. The people here consider themselves descendants of the Byzantine Empire and colorful Byzantine customs are very strong here. Their Easter celebration here has been registered in the UNESCO Archive of Worldwide Cultural Heritage.
For centuries, Olymbos was isolated from the southern part of the island and only in the last few years has the winding road leading here been paved. Built on a mountainside, Olymbos is filled with stairs and narrow alleyways. This means we had to leave the car at the free parking lot at the bottom of the village and hike up!
But I have to say this place looks magical as soon as you approach it. A picturesque village tucked into the mountain. Back in the 7th century AD, Olymbos was situated next to the sea. But, due to numerous pirate attacks, the entire population abandoned their homes and moved high into the mountains and far away from the coast.
This move isolated them not only from the sea and the pirates, but also from the rest of the villages on the island. Because of this, their ancient traditions, customs, and dialect have been well preserved.
The traditions here in Olymbos are unique in all of Greece and can be seen daily in how the women dress. For everyday wear, they tie on a black apron and simple scarf, and for special occasions they dress in bright colors and wear a double row of coins around their neck.
Daily Life
The homes here are decorated with small paintings and sculptures. One sweet lady invited us inside her home to see what it looked like. With wooden beams, whitewashed walls, a small fireplace, and colorful hand stitched embroidery covering all the furnishings, I found it delightfully warm, cozy, and colorful.
We also visited the church, the ancient windmills and many quaint little shops and a bakery as we wandered through this amazing mountain village.
Here in Olymbos the communal oven is still an active feature. These large, outdoor, wood fired ovens are where women bring their bread and casseroles to bake. They take turns feeding the fire and socialize while their food cooks. I had read about these ovens but had never seen one in use. Individual ovens in homes are replacing the communal oven in many places now.
Next Stop: Diafani
Driving back down from Olymbos, we stopped and had lunch in Diafani Village, located right next to the long and beautiful stretch of Diafani Beach. Ten meters wide and 200 meters long, this beach has crystal clear water, and virtually no waves. This pebble beach is almost never crowded and offers only a few sun beds with umbrellas. It’s used the most by locals.
Tourists come to see the sights and have lunch, but few stay long enough to use this beautiful little beach. Restaurants and taverns can be found just a few feet away from the promenade. We had a great seafood lunch at a little seaside restaurant, and my husband made a new friend. Cats are very prevalent on the island and before he knew it, a large tabby was cuddled up on his lap and napping. My husband is not a cat person, but these creatures seem to gravitate to him everywhere we go. He just goes with it, but it makes me laugh.
A Day on the West Side
The following day we left our room early and drove the entire West side of the island. Stopping at small roadside chapels, discovering isolated beaches, small resorts, and just enjoying all this beautiful island had to offer.
We stopped at a small cove beach late in the morning with the intention of staying awhile but after a short time, the heat and the hunger got to us, and we hiked back up the hill to a small family-owned restaurant. Most of the olive groves here on the island are owned by individual families for their own use. This small family-owned restaurant had a bottle of olive oil from their own grove on each table, and I have to say it was the best tasting olive oil I have ever had.
This West side of the island was more arid than the East side. Instead of pine trees, it was more scrub brush. Still beautiful as we passed through small, picturesque villages and visited more beaches. Some with a few amenities and some that were unmanned. It was wonderful!
Closing the Page to This Adventure
I was truly enchanted by Karpathos. Even though it is close to Rhodes island, Karpathos takes some effort to get to and is more off the beaten track for tourists and gets much fewer visitors. With its preserved traditions, quaint villages, beautiful beaches, and stunning mountains, this tranquility won’t last long.
Already, people seeking a more authentic experience have put Karpathos among the top European destinations. It is not a party destination or for those with a limited amount of time. I found it beautiful, relaxing, and a great place to connect with nature and the local people.
Karpathos was so much more than I expected it would be. It left me wanting to seek similar adventures and visit more Greek islands.
Please check out our video on Karpathos here.
You can also read more about our slow travels at farawaynowtravels.com.
Let’s Have a Conversation:
Do you like to explore everything a destination has to offer before moving on? What do you think about slow island-hopping?
