If travel has always been a lifelong passion for you as it has for me, there’s a good chance you’ll feel a tinge of regret when you hear stories of cities such as Venice introducing a tourist tax, and residents of other destinations in Europe clamouring to limit the threat of apartment rental companies taking hold of the city.
Perhaps you remember a time when you could walk into Florence’s magnificent churches without having to queue or buy tickets, or stroll across crowd-free bridges in Venice?
There’s no denying that some of our favourite Italian cities have become overcrowded and finding solutions to deal with the art and culture-seeking hordes of tourists is becoming increasingly challenging.
But, of course, feasting our eyes on beautiful things is one of life’s great pleasures and so important for our mental wellbeing. And while you may want to avoid some of the world’s busier attractions, we’ve found plenty of ways to dodge the crowds and, if anything, get even more out of our travels.
One way to do this is to switch your stay to a smaller town or village near to the main hotspot, for example Siena rather than Florence. For a rural break in Tuscany, in place of the Chianti hills, why not head for the lesser known Mugello region? Or treat yourself to glorious coastal views, without the crowds, by swapping one coastline for another? Hopefully, you’ll find inspiration in some of these holiday alternatives in Italy.
Skip Florence for Siena
The city of Florence is undoubtedly one of Europe’s most magnificent. But inevitably, exploring its historic centre when its streets are crammed full of tourists has its downsides. Rather than staying in Florence, base yourself in its quieter neighbour, Siena, where you can still marvel at dazzling art treasures, gaze up at Renaissance architecture and explore the hilltop towns that surround the city. If you’re still keen on a day trip to Florence, there are regular direct buses between the two cities.
Discover Italy’s Smaller Lakes
Italy’s largest lakes – Garda, Maggiore and Como – can get crowded between May and September, with tourists flocking to the main towns along the shore. Fortunately, each of the lakes is large enough to be able to avoid the crowds if you know where to go but there are other options.
For a more tranquil experience, head to pocket-sized Lake Orta in the north eastern corner of Piedmont, where you’ll find gardens in blooms, enchanting villages and sweeping views across the Italian and Swiss Alps. Alternatively, tiny Lake Iseo, set between Lakes Como and Garda, is a wonderful base for hilly climbs, private boat cruises to the magical island of Monte Isola in the centre of the lake, and multiple opportunities to sample the delicious wines of Franciacorta.
Swap Milan for Bergamo
Set at a mid-point between Lakes Como and Iseo, Bergamo is one of Italy’s classic secret gems. Just a short train ride from the fashion powerhouse of Milan, the town is encircled by 16th century Venetian walls with two distinctive areas, Bergamo Alta and Bergamo Bassa (Upper and Lower Bergamo), connected by two cable cars.
Explore the stairways and piazzas of the ancient heart of the medieval city (Bergamo Alta) where you’ll find glorious medieval and Renaissance architecture, including the main cathedral and the magnificent Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore.
Hop on a Train from Padua to Venice
Just 23 miles to the west of Venice, Padua is a small city with an authentic Italian feel. A short train ride will whisk you into Venice, but I guarantee you’ll be happy to return to the quieter cobblestoned streets and gorgeous architecture of Padua.
Top sights in the city include the Palazzo della Ragione, the world’s oldest Botanical Garden, and the magnificent Giotto frescoes in the Scrovegni Chapel. But if you just want to absorb the local atmosphere and find the best flavours in town, head to the giant open air market and the delicatessens in the covered arcades in Piazza delle Erbe.
Lucca or Pisa?
Pisa’s Leaning Tower remains one of Italy’s most iconic images and definitely one to add to the list of must-see sights. However, rather than staying in Pisa, I’d recommend basing yourself in the delightful city of Lucca, around 20km away.
With a slightly more understated feel than several of its neighbours, the city’s main appeal is its walled heart, home to Pisan-Romanesque churches with ornate facades, elegant palazzi and pedestrian-friendly streets. Outside of the city, the Colline Lucchesi, the hills of Lucca, are a hiker’s paradise, swathed in vineyards and olive groves, and dotted with magnificent country houses and gardens.
Lerici Instead of the Cinque Terre
Walking the Cinque Terre – the 5 picture perfect villages of the Cinque Terre National Park – comes at a cost. A Cinque Terre Trekking Card, which can cost up to €15 on high peak days, gives you access to all footpaths. Combine it with a one-day train card and you could be spending over €30 per person. The region is undeniably beautiful, but spending the day here can end up being both expensive and crowded.
But there are alternatives. We end our tour to Tuscany and Liguria in Lerici, where you’ll still find colourful houses and sea views, minus the crowds. In terms of size, the town is probably similar to Monterosso, the largest of the Cinque Terre towns. Set on the romantically named Bay of Poets – the area was a favourite with writers in the early 19th century – there’s a small historic centre and tourist marina, and a good selection of restaurants and creative boutiques.
Crowd-Free Alternative to the Amalfi Coast
No-one could deny the beauty of the Amalfi Coast. Towns such as Amalfi, Ravello and Positano are home to pastel-hued homes that cling to the steep lemon scented hillside, with simply jaw-dropping views over turquoise water and the silhouettes of neighbouring islands. But visit any of these towns during the summer months and you’ll find the charming alleyways thronging with tourists.
Just a few hours to the south, the Tyrrhenian coast promises equally spectacular coastal views without the crowds. One of my favourite spots is the charming town of Maratea which overlooks a string of beaches fringed by crystal clear water.
There are churches to visit, and a towering chalk white figure of Christ the Redeemer which seems to hover over the town, arms outstretched, from its lofty sea-facing location. But a stay in Maratea is all about the coastline’s natural beauty, its fabulous beaches and that very Italian sense of ‘dolce far niente’ – the ‘sweetness of doing nothing’.
Images provided by Jackie Parsons of Hedonistic Hiking.
Also read, Top 10 Small Museums and Attractions in Italy.
Let’s Have a Conversation:
What memories do you have of travelling in Europe? Are you put off by crowded places? How do you feel about having to pay for entry to cities such as Venice?
